Ah, the Black Forest… honestly, what a stunning discovery. This winter, in December, we hit the road towards southwestern Germany. Why? Because the thought of a mystical forest wrapped in mist, sometimes blanketed in snow, sometimes lit by sunbeams, was worth crossing all of France for. The plan for those few days? Disconnect. Take a deep breath after a whirlwind year that even brought us to China. And most importantly, recharge before diving back into the chaos. If this idea speaks to you, our itinerary might just hit the spot: 3 gentle days filled with nature, cozy vibes, Christmas markets, and a hefty dose of relaxation.
Day 1
Freiburg and a spa hotel in the High Black Forest
It all begins in Freiburg, Germany (important to specify, as there’s also a Freiburg in Switzerland, which could be confusing). Just a 3-hour train ride from Paris for around €100, Freiburg is the place to start your Black Forest adventure (and what an entrance, honestly). Picture cobblestone streets, colorful houses, and little Bächle—tiny streams weaving through the city center. The whole place oozes charm. Honestly, we were hooked within minutes.
Our favorite spots in Freiburg im Breisgau
- The Old Town – a must-see: Take your time to get lost in Freiburg’s streets. Really, put the GPS away. These little lanes have that je ne sais quoi that makes you want to wander, pause in front of a beautiful facade, or just lose yourself… simply for the joy of it.
- For history buffs or anyone who loves stunning cathedrals: Don’t miss the Münster, the Cathedral of Our Lady. Miraculously spared during World War II, it’s breathtaking with its towering spire and intricate sculptures. And even if you try to ignore it, you can’t. It’s everywhere. Physically impossible to miss.
- The Münstermarkt (Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to 12 PM): The square around the cathedral buzzes with life as the market sets up shop. Everything here screams freshness: fruits, vegetables, flowers, local specialties… Special mention to the legendary Lange Rote, Freiburg’s iconic grilled sausage. Pro tip: add mustard. You’ll thank us later.
- Christmas bonus: If you’re lucky enough to visit during the festive season, don’t miss the Freiburger Weihnachtsmarkt, the city’s famous Christmas market! With 120 wooden stalls and a magical atmosphere that fills every corner of the Old Town, it’s simply enchanting.
- Before leaving Freiburg: Head up to Schlossberg for a bird’s-eye view of the city and the rolling hills stretching into the distance. It’s like a postcard, but real.
The Hochschwarzwald – the High Black Forest
After Freiburg, the day continues in the High Black Forest for a completely different kind of escape: one focused on relaxation. The journey takes you along the picturesque Schauinsland route, a winding climb with breathtaking views. Rolling hills stretch as far as the eye can see, and if the weather is on your side, keep your eyes peeled—you might even catch a glimpse of the Alps in the distance.
At the end of the road, or almost, we arrived at the Waldhotel am Notschreipass.
This spa hotel, which I like to describe as having an authentic Alpine style, is nestled in the heart of nature, right at the foot of hiking trails and ski slopes. As soon as I arrived, I had this strange sensation of being able to breathe better. Maybe the warm air of the 55°C sauna, while snow gently fell outside, had something to do with it.
I won’t spoil everything for you, but here are a few highlights:
- An indoor pool with views of the Black Forest’s hills and fir trees,
- Saunas at different temperatures, a hammam, and a steam bath,
- And to top it all off, a pine oil massage that feels heavenly.
It’s the kind of place where you quickly forget the rest of the world.
- Address: Notschrei Passhöhe 2, 79674 Todtnau
Day 2
Waterfalls, hiking, and relaxation in Freudenstadt
The Todtnau Waterfalls and the Blackforestline
Standing 97 meters tall, the Todtnau Waterfalls are among the most impressive in Germany. For a different perspective, head to the Blackforestline, a suspension bridge soaring 120 meters above the ground. The view is breathtaking, though if you’re afraid of heights, prepare for a few chills—haha! Spanning 450 meters, the bridge offers a unique vantage point of the waterfalls, the valley, and the towering fir trees of the Black Forest.
- Price: €12 per person.
- Hike: The Grand Waterfalls Loop (2.4 km) is an easy circular trail suitable for everyone—perfect for soaking in the surrounding beauty.
The ultimate relaxation awaits at The Fritz
In Freudenstadt, you’re about to have an experience you won’t soon forget.
The Fritz is much more than a hotel. Picture this: a 1,000 m² spa (yes, a thousand—you read that right), a dining experience and breakfast that verge on perfection, and a heated outdoor pool overlooking the Black Forest hills. The best moment? Early in the morning, when it’s just above freezing outside. A light mist forms over the pool, and everything feels even more surreal. A true escape from time.
- Address: Am Zollernblick 1, 72250 Freudenstadt
My advice? Spend the afternoon at the spa, then follow it up with dinner at the hotel—no hesitation needed.
If I promised you relaxation and unwinding, we’ve definitely hit the mark, and then some. This is the kind of moment where you completely let go. Trust me, you won’t want to leave.
Day 3
Black Forest National Park and the charm of Karlsruhe
Exploring the Black Forest National Park
For the final day, head to the Black Forest National Park. Spanning 10,000 hectares, it’s a true haven for anyone in need of fresh air—which was exactly what we needed. The trails are well-maintained, easy to find, and cater to all levels of hikers. Bonus: you might spot deer or be serenaded by birdsong along the way.
To plan your hike, check out the park’s website. One must-try route is the trail from Ruhestein to Wildsee: 6.5 km leading to the breathtaking Wildsee glacial lake. If you’re visiting with family, consider stopping at the Nationalparkzentrum Ruhestein. It’s the perfect way to wrap up your trip.
The interactive museum offers a fun and engaging dive into the local ecosystems, including fascinating insights like how trees communicate with each other.
Price: €8 per person.
The magic of Karlsruhe
To end this itinerary on a high note, head to Karlsruhe. In winter, the city center transforms into a fairy-tale setting: the castle square lights up with a massive ice rink, twinkling garlands everywhere, and food stalls serving up all kinds of treats. Mulled wine, crêpes, sauerkraut, lange rote… it’s hard not to give in to temptation. Actually, just give in—it’s easier that way.
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And here we are at the end of this article, hoping it inspires your getaway to the Black Forest.
This little 3-day itinerary is just what you need to disconnect, recharge, and take in a big gulp of fresh air. With nature, relaxation, and stunning hotels, it’s a break that does wonders for both body and mind.
If you have any questions, need more details, or even have stories to share, feel free to drop them in the comments—I’d be happy to answer! Until then, see you soon ✌🏼
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