After several days exploring the Dordogne Valley, our adventure takes us higher, into Haute-Corrèze, among the valleys and peaks of the Millevaches Plateau. Perched at nearly 1,000 meters above sea level, far from the hustle and bustle of urban life, the few lost degrees do not dampen our enthusiasm, despite the persistent grayness of May that seems to cling to our every step. Beneath its mist and sea of clouds, Corrèze reveals a mysterious, almost elusive beauty. In this article, we invite you to join us as we uncover the secrets of this region during two days of adventure.
Day 1
On the route of adjusters
Whether you’re reaching the Millevaches Plateau by car, bike, or motorcycle, the Route of the Adjusters, from the village of Spontour to the Belvédère de Roc Grand, is stunning. Be attentive, as here in Haute-Corrèze, the wild nature reigns supreme. A small stream may lead you to a waterfall, a narrow path to a breathtaking viewpoint, and a little tree to a vast forest of hardwoods. The adjusters were iconic figures of the rural landscape in Haute-Corrèze, traveling from village to village to repair or adjust everything from agricultural tools to kitchen utensils.
Begin your journey in the charming village of Spontour, nestled along the banks of the Dordogne. Little spoiler : every village in Corrèze is worth a visit, just so you know. Then, head towards the Aigle dam, one of the five largest dams on the Dordogne, measuring 290 meters long and 90 meters high. Your trip continues to the Saint Projet Viaduct, an architectural marvel that officially marks your entry into Corrèze. Next, make your way to the Gratte-Bruyère viewpoint, perhaps my favorite spot at the start of this trip. From this vantage point, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the confluence of the Dordogne and Sumène rivers, as well as the reservoir of the Aigle Dam. It’s one of the best viewpoints in the region to admire the vast expanses of Haute-Corrèze and spot various birds of prey. Nearby, don’t miss the Cascade du Saut de Juillac. Wrap up your exploration with a stop at the Roc Grand viewpoint, which overlooks the Marèges reservoir and offers an exceptional panorama of the Dordogne Gorges.
A tip ?
To avoid the crowds during peak season, consider taking the route of the adjusters early in the morning. Who knows, you might even have a better chance of spotting a bird of prey ; it’s said that the Peregrine Falcon patrols the morning sky. Don’t forget to bring a pair of binoculars, you never know!
For those who came to hike on the Millevaches Plateau and its surroundings, I’d like to recommend the stunning hiking route in the Dordogne Gorges, “The Dordogne from Villages to Dams” (nearly 450 km along the right and left banks of the Dordogne, passing by the Orgues de Bort, St-Nazaire, and Gratte-Bruyère).
Panorama at the Saint Nazaire site
A must-stop on the Haute-Corrèze route, the panorama at Saint-Nazaire offers a beautiful view of the confluence of the Dordogne and Diège rivers. Accessing it is simple: just follow the sign that says “Site de Saint-Nazaire, 0.5 km.” The trail winds through a bucolic landscape and is accessible for all ages—a pleasant and easy stroll through nature (expect a 30-minute walk with a positive elevation gain of 62 meters).
Legend has it that the devil spread chaos and fear among the inhabitants, and Saint-Nazaire confronted him with an act of faith and courage, managing to repel him. This event supposedly took place precisely on the promontory where the viewpoint now stands. The crosses at the site serve as a reminder of his victory over evil. Rest assured, the place has been purified since then. At least, I believe so.
A tip ?
Make sure to check the weather before you head out, as conditions can change quickly in the mountains, and the Saint-Nazaire site is no exception. We arrived under the sun and left in the rain. However, regardless of the weather or time of day, the site is always worth a visit. That said, as is often the case with viewpoints, opt for the gentle light of morning or evening for the best experience.
✅ To capture great travel photos, one of our top tips is to play with the soft natural light of the morning or evening. Check out our dedicated article for more tips!
Visit to the Bort-les-Orgues dam
You may have noticed that the mountainous terrain and numerous waterways of Haute-Corrèze make it a naturally suitable location for dam construction. France, needing electricity, began the construction of the Marèges Dam in 1930, paving the way for the Aigle Dam, the Bort-les-Orgues Dam in 1951, the Chastang Dam, and the Argentat Dam. Today, these imposing structures are an integral part of the Corrèze landscape and play a key role on multiple levels. Not only do they facilitate the production of renewable electricity through hydroelectric power, as stored water in the reservoirs is released through turbines, but these dams are also essential for agricultural irrigation, flood control, and enhancing biodiversity.
A fascinating technical detour into French engineering: the Bort-les-Orgues Dam, standing at 120 meters high and 390 meters long, exceptionally opens its doors for a visit that allows you to discover how electricity is produced, its importance in our daily lives, and how it is distributed across France. Little spoiler : EDF uses these dams to quickly respond to the peak electricity demands of the French.
Practical information : Visits can be self-guided or guided, lasting approximately 1.5 hours and starting from €4. For more information, check the Tourisme Corrèze website.
Day 2
Viewpoint and hiking at the Bort-les-Orgues
At an altitude of 789 meters, overlooking the town of Bort-les-Orgues, the Orgues de Bort are a natural marvel of Haute-Corrèze. Formed by the slow cooling of lava flows, the Orgues de Bort create vertical columns that resemble organ pipes, hence their name. This is a must-stop for nature lovers and hikers alike, especially for those who appreciate exceptional panoramic views without having to hike for 7 hours with elevation gain. It is said that from this vantage point, you have the best view to contemplate the Auvergne. On clear days, you can even catch a glimpse of the Puy de Sancy, which peaks at 1,885 meters.
The Tour des Orgues is a 5-kilometer hiking loop (allow about 1 hour) that allows you to get a closer look at the famous basalt columns. The trail is well-marked and accessible, making it suitable for all levels of hikers, although the end of the trail is a bit challenging. Keep an eye out for the birds of prey that often nest in the tall columns! For more information, visit the Tourisme Corrèze website.
Our tip ?
Feel free to take a break, before or after your short hike, at the Pierre chalet to enjoy an ice cream on a warm day. Or cold, of course, it’s up to you!
Climb to the panoramic tower of Mont Bessou.
At an altitude of 1,000 meters on Mont Bessou, the highest point in Limousin at 976 meters, come and observe the Cantal and Auvergne Mountains. Enjoy a 360-degree view of the vast stretches of coniferous forests and peat bogs of the mystical Millevaches Plateau. Here, you may lose a few more degrees, but the tranquility of the place is priceless. Breathe in the fresh air !
Our tip ?
Bring a picnic to enjoy the sunset and take your time: thanks to its high position and distance from major light pollution sources, Mont Bessou is also an excellent spot for stargazing, one of the best in Western Europe for astronomy. It was designated as an “International Dark Sky Reserve” in late 2021 (there are only 4 such reserves in France and 19 worldwide!).
Mountain biking adventure on the Millevaches Plateau
Little spoiler : uh… beware of strong sensations!
Since you climbed to the panoramic tower of Mont Bessou, you are now officially in the Millevaches Regional Natural Park in Limousin. The Millevaches Plateau, often referred to as “the water tower of France” due to its numerous lakes, peat bogs, and the rivers that originate there, primarily spans a vast northeastern quarter of the Corrèze department. It also covers part of southern Creuse and extends into the southeastern corner of Haute-Vienne, making it the ideal spot for nature lovers and outdoor adventure enthusiasts.
Perfect timing, because that’s exactly why we’re here!
The Haute-Corrèze Sports Nature station has “built” a Pump Track. At the summit of Mont Bessou, the track consists of a series of bumps and turns that can be navigated without the cyclist needing to pedal, using only body movement to maintain speed. Was I scared ? Yes. Is it a wonderful way to end your stay in Haute-Corrèze ? Absolutely. Guided by Clément’s expertise, you’ll experience nature and adventure, alternating between undergrowth, climbs, descents, peaceful walks along the water, and sporting challenges for the more daring.
Practical information : The rental of mountain bikes, both electric and standard, starts from €14 for half a day for an adult. Several cycling routes are available; we tested the Ronde du Mont Bessou ! For more information, check the Sports Nature website.
Our tip ?
If the weather permits, feel free to rent a kayak or even a pedal boat for one last adventure on Lake Sèchemaille, just 4 kilometers from Meymac. It’s the perfect way to wrap up your stay from the Dordogne Gorges to the Millevaches Plateau in style!
How to get to the Millevaches Plateau?
If the Millevaches Plateau and its surroundings are a must-see during a stay in Corrèze, it remains a relatively isolated destination. Here’s how you can get there:
- By car
Driving is undoubtedly the most convenient and flexible way to reach the Millevaches Plateau, especially if you plan to explore multiple sites in the region.
From Paris: Take the A10 towards Orléans, then the A71 to Bourges, follow the A20 towards Limoges, and finally take the departmental roads towards Corrèze (approximately 5 hours).
From Toulouse: Take the A20 north towards Brive-la-Gaillarde, then continue to Ussel via national and departmental roads (approximately 3.5 hours).
From Bordeaux: Take the A89 towards Brive-la-Gaillarde, then follow the signs to Ussel (approximately 3 hours).
- By train
The train can be another option for those who prefer not to drive, although it may require transfers. Ussel and Eymoutiers are the closest train stations to the Millevaches Plateau. Ussel is served by trains from Paris and Toulouse. Eymoutiers can be accessed from Limoges. Once at the station, you will need transportation to reach your final destination on the plateau, whether by taxi or a car rental service, as local public transport options are limited.
✅ Rent a car on Rentalcars in Brive-la-Gaillarde (or elsewhere).
Where to stay during your visit to the Millevaches Plateau?
Whatever your needs or budget, you’ll surely find something to suit you on Booking.com or Airbnb. However, if I can offer you a piece of advice (or even two), during your stay in Haute-Corrèze, consider spending the night in a unique accommodation or in the splendidly renovated Rigouneix Manor by Violaine and Pierre. Two rooms, two atmospheres, but each offers a unique experience!
- At the natural camping area in Saint-Julien-Près-Bort, the Dordogne de Villages en Barrages Association offers unique accommodation in a tranquil setting: the POD. This simple concept of a small dome-shaped cabin, often made of wood and perfectly integrated into its natural surroundings, provides an eco-friendly and exclusive way to enjoy the outdoors. Available from April to November, the cost is €13 per person. For more details, visit the Association’s website.
- For those seeking a more traditional yet equally charming experience, the Rigouneix Manor, renovated by Violaine and Pierre, offers a luxurious stay in a splendid setting where even a deer seems to have made its home. Located 12 kilometers from Meymac, to the south of the Millevaches Plateau, this manor is perfect for those who want to combine comfort and nature. It’s simple, I’ve rarely seen anything more beautiful. Every detail has been carefully considered, from the decor to the bedding, including the breakfast. You also have the option to dine on-site on weekends, an option to mention once your booking is complete. For more details, check out booking.com.
Where to eat during your visit to the Millevaches Plateau?
Discovering the Millevaches Plateau also means embarking on a culinary journey where local flavors take center stage. As I like to remind everyone, a true successful trip inevitably involves culinary exploration. Whether you’re looking for a traditional Corrèze meal or a picnic to take along for a day of biking or hiking, I have two great places to recommend. And they’re both in Meymac!
- For an authentic experience of traditional Haute-Corrèze cuisine, head to Françoise Bleu’s restaurant, Chez Françoise, located on Rue de la Fontaine du Rat. This restaurant, a true institution in the region, was the favorite canteen of former President Jacques Chirac, who came here to enjoy local dishes. No frills here : fresh, raw ingredients are used to prepare simple and effective cuisine. Among the must-tries in Corrèze, don’t miss the tourtou, a fine buckwheat galette, and the millassou, a crispy potato galette on the outside and soft on the inside.
- For a picnic-style experience, head to Juliette’s organic grocery store, PêlMêl. Here, you can create a gourmet basket by adding local products such as delicious corrèzian cider, fresh cheese from Meymac, apples, or even a sheep terrine from the Besseau farm. Enjoy your meal !
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We have reached the end of this article, which I hope has been helpful in preparing your journey from the Dordogne Gorges to the Millevaches Plateau in Haute-Corrèze. If you enjoyed this article, please feel free to like, share, or comment on it (it doesn’t cost you anything, and it helps us immensely 🙏🏼).
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